Bog River Flow

Thursday, October 31-Saturday, November 2, 2024

Thursday, October 31, 2024

This was my last paddling trip of the 2024 season and my first to the Bog River Flow/Lows Lake in two years; primarily because the lower dam was under construction and I did not want to use any of the alternative routes (paddle down Horseshoe Creek or do a 2+ mile road walk to the Upper Dam). It was great that the area re-opened just in time for me to make a trip there.

This particular trip was special for another reason - I had my paddling partner, Russet with me. Russet is my daughter's four-year old Portuguese Water Dog. Russet and I have done some canoe camping trips together over the past couple of years. Most recently, we visited Massawepie and Taylor Pond. He's a great paddling and camping partner - he travels well in the canoe, sticks close to me while we're in camp and on-trail and provides great companionship. He really seems to enjoy the outings, particularly because he's off-leash most of the time. It's quite a contrast from his normal, everyday life - living in a condo in Washington, DC.

We left home around 5:15 and had an uneventful drive up, with one rest stop in Newcomb. We turned off onto Route 421, the road from 30N to the Lows Lower Dam road.

421 was in its usual terrible shape - lots of potholes, broken pavement, cracking, depressions and upheavals. I don't know who is responsible for maintaining the road, but it has been neglected and in need of major resurfacing for as long as I can remember. In fact, the dirt roads near Horseshoe Lake and to Lows Lower Dam are usually in better shape than 421. 

Speaking of the road to Lows Lower Dam, it has been widened, resurfaced and is in great shape. There are now two areas near the put-in, the larger one that could probably hold 15-20 vehicles, is closest to the put-in, the other (smaller one) can probably hold 8-10 vehicles, is just adjacent to the larger lot. Both provide a significant improvement to the parking situation, which has been a problem in all but very early and late in the season. There is a new sign board (with a map of the area) near the gate that blocks vehicular access to the lower dam, but no register as yet (which I would expect to see for the spring paddling season). 

There was only one vehicle in the lot when we arrived around 9:30, so I was able to park right near the gate, making uploading very easy and carrying to the put-in very convenient. It's hard to even characterize my excitement upon arriving, finding only one vehicle there and being able to visit one of my long-time favorite paddling destinations in the Adirondacks. The weather was good for the time of year - it was overcast, but not raining and temperature was moderate. There was some wind, but it didn't seem to be enough to make paddling difficult. My plans were open-ended; with one option being to paddle to Lows and camping there, another to camp at site #10 or #12 and a third option to camp at Hitchins Pond. I decided to just play it by ear and make a decision along the way.

Russet waited in the Forester as I unloaded the canoe, all the gear and took it down to the put-in. Then I took him out and we went down to the put-in. Since there wasn't anyone around I didn't put him on a leash or rope. As soon as we got down to the canoe at the put-in, he jumped in the canoe. I told him, "No, yet yet" and he jumped out and went in the water to the top of his legs. Then he wanted to go out onto the dam, but that could be dangerous, so I said "No, don't go out there." He came back and stayed near me as I loaded the canoe. 

Once the gear was loaded and we were about to get and launch, another guy (his name was John) arrived at the put-in. We chatted for a bit - he owns a farm in Red Hook (NY) and drove up for the day to do a day paddle. Soon Russet and I pushed off and began the paddle up the Bog River. This was familiar territory and despite it being two years since last doing this paddle, it still looked familiar. Russet sat in front of me as we paddled, as the thwart bag took up too much room and he was unable to easily lie down. 

Once we passed campsite #2 and were into more open water, we experienced a strong, constant headwind. One of my choices was to camp at site #6 on Hitchins Pond, which despite many visits to the area, I was never able to do because it was always occupied. 

So when we reached Hitchins Pond and found the site empty, and not really wanting to fight the headwind all the way to Lows Lake, I decided we make camp there. When we landed at the site (where there is a small sandy area), Russet jumped out of the canoe, ran up to the campsite and zoomed around. He was so excited!

It was easy to pull the canoe up on the landing area and unload it. I lifted the gear up onto the bank of the campsite. Upon going up to the site I noticed there was a good supply of cut firewood, some of which was already cut to a size that would fit in the woodstove. After Russet and I had lunch, I set up camp; which took most of the afternoon. I hadn't used the Luxe MiniPeak tent, so it took some time to configure it, with the accompanying Mini-Tarp properly, along with the woodstove. 

The MiniPeak, with the Winter Inner installed, had enough room for the cot and the clothing bag at its foot. I put some packing cubes with additional clothing under the cot. I left the RBW (Recreational Barrel Works) Coureur Canoe Pack, with other gear, outside the Inner. There was still ample room in the MiniPeak for me to sit by the woodstove.

The remainder of the day was spent setting up camp, processing firewood, playing with Russet (who was out and about the site) and exploring the immediate area around the campsite. 

We saw a few day paddlers, but no one else seemed to be camping. Later, Russet and I had dinner and sat by the woodstove. I had to be vigilant and monitor Russet's movements in the tent while the woodstove was going to be sure he didn't brush up against the it and get burned. 

We went into the Inner around 7:30. I climbed into my Hammock Gear 0 Degree Top Quilt, which was attached to an Exped Dura 8R sleeping mat, which I inflated with a Flextail Tiny Pump and read by lantern and book light for awhile. Russet occupied himself by trying to get settled. Initially he located himself adjacent to the foot of the cot, but later moved up the blanket I had placed near the top of the cot and next to my head. After awhile it was lights out and time to sleep. Periodically, Russet would go on alert and growl, but he finally settled down and we both slept soundly until around 10:30, when we both went out while I checked that the tent was well-secured, as the wind had picked up significantly. Not long after we went back into the tent, it started to rain. I was awakened around 12:30 by the wind and the rain, both of which were heavier than before. I was next awakened around 3:30 by Russet moving about in the tent and licking my face. The rain was steady and probably stayed that way for awhile. 

Friday, November 1, 2024

Russet woke me again around 7:15, wanting to go out. I let him out while I tried to get a bit more sleep. After awhile, he returned (a bit wet); I toweled him off and then we both fell asleep to the sound of light rain hitting the tent.

Russet starting moving about in the tent around 8:30, climbing up on me and trying to lick me awake. He laid on me while I petted him for awhile. I must admit it was nice having a warm, soft dog in the tent with me. After a bit he was anxious to go out, so I let him out and began getting dressed for the day. After laying down for nearly 12 hours, I was only a little bit stiff. Quite a change from how I usually feel if I don't sleep in my hammock. The new Exped sleeping pad was the difference and I probably wasn't cold at all because of it and the 0 degree top quilt. I only slept in a base layer and wore a hat. I didn't need to put on the Patagonia down sweater and Nano Puff Pants I had brought with me; nor did I need to break out the Sea to Summit Thermolite Reactor liner I had brought along. I was definitely comfortable enough that if I want to tent, rather than hammock camp, I can use either of my two hot tents: the Luxe MiniPeak XL or the Pomoly StoveHut 70 along with a cot/pad and a top quilt or sleeping bag. With these setups, I would feel comfortable camping well into November and earlier in the spring (late March-early April). 

After emerging from the tent, I noticed the wind was still blowing. It really hadn't stopped since we put-in. I set about getting breakfast (instant oatmeal, coffee and an orange) ready. Russet busied himself poking around near the campsite. He would occasionally come by to check on me and get a treat. About an hour later, after I had breakfast and had done some reading, the sun came out for awhile, but then it clouded over again. The wind was still blowing steady, gusting strong enough to create white caps on the pond. The plan was to take a day paddle up to Lows Lake and spend the day up there. However, the cloudy skies, strong headwind we would face and the intermittent showers that had developed were not conducive to such a plan. Neither was a paddle on the pond, as it was rough and would make paddling a difficult task. Instead, Russet and I took a walk in the woods behind the campsite, collecting firewood along the way. 

Russet doesn't seem at all bothered by the weather. I brought along his jacket and kept it on him when the rain was at all consistent. Having it on him was more of a convenience rather than a necessity; it just meant that I had to towel him off less frequently. 

In the early afternoon, the rain showers let up, so I made a campfire for us to sit by to be a bit warmer. This was preferable to sitting in the tent (with the woodstove), where I we would have a more limited view of the pond and I would have to monitor Russet's movements to be sure he didn't accidently get burned by the stove. So, I made lunch, started the campfire and we both sat by it as I ate and read the book I had brought with me. We spent a few hours there enjoying the scenery and the warmth of the fire. Despite the less than ideal weather, it was very quiet and peaceful. I hadn't seen anyone, day paddlers or campers, since the yesterday afternoon. With the weather we were having today, I had little expectation of anyone paddling by. 

The wind died down in the late afternoon. Russet and I made another sojourn into the woods behind the campsite, where I collected some more firewood and birch bark. We made several trips back and forth to the campsite to get the wood back into camp. I then set about processing the firewood for the campfire; I had plenty of wood for the woodstove already. We spent the rest of the afternoon and early evening by the campfire, reading and relaxing.

Towards sundown, there was a notable drop in the temperature. The forecast referenced this and included the possibility of snow showers. I spent a bit of time shifting everything under the tarp and prepared dinner there as well. We both had dinner before it got dark and then retreated into the tent, fired up the woodstove and spent a couple of hours sitting near it. 

I closed up the front flap to the tent, which kept the heat inside, making the tent comfortably warm. Russet was content to lie down near me as I read. Around 9pm, we went outside to relieve ourselves. I noted that it was noticeably colder, both a result of the drop in temperature and the continuation of the wind. We retreated into the tent, I put one last load into the woodstove and then we went into the Inner to get ready for bed.

Russet settled himself on his blanket near the head of the cot. I kept my base layer on, but since it was supposed to be colder tonight, I made sure the Patagonia clothing and the Thermolite Reactor were handy if I needed them. After getting under the quilt, I read a bit more, but feeling sleepy, I decided it was time to go to sleep. Russet was still on his blanket when I turned out the light and put my head down. 

It was just before 1:30 when I awoke. It was noticeably colder than when I went to sleep. I turned on the lantern and noticed I could see my breath. Having to relieve myself and in light of the colder temperature, I turned on the lantern and put on the down sweater and pants. Then Russet and I went out to do our business. It was still cloudy because I could see no stars. It was also still windy, so it felt cold, even with the down sweater and pants. We both took care of things quickly and went back inside the tent. I thought about starting a fire in the woodstove to warm things up a bit, but decided against it. Inside the closed tent, it wasn't as cold as outside and it seemed like more work to get the stove loaded and lit than was warranted. Better to climb under the top quilt and get warmed up.

Saturday, November 2, 2024

I slept the remainder of the night warm and comfortable. I was awoken around 8am by Russet climbing on me and laying across my chest. He whined to go out so I let him out of the Inner and he did his usual thing to crawl under the flap to get out of the tent. I could hear him walking around the campsite.

While he was out I checked the Garmin and the weather radio for the forecast. It called for temperatures in upper 20s with wind and intermittent snow showers. There would be periods of sun and clouds. The forecast for the night and following day were less than ideal: continuing wind, chance of snow showers and another drop in temps into the lower 20s-upper teens. The weather for the following day was actually worse, with a forecast for a couple of inches of snow. Certainly not the kind of weather for a pleasant paddle up to Lows Lake.

So, in light of this forecast, I decided to cut my losses and leave today. Russet returned to the tent as I was finishing dressing, this time putting on my wool clothing - both pants and shirt. I emerged from the Inner, into the tent. I thought about getting the woodstove going, but again couldn't be bothered. Despite the cold temperature and the wind, it wasn't that bad when I was under the tarp or moving about the campsite. I decided to make a quick breakfast of oatmeal and and an orange, break camp, pack up and paddle out. It took about two and half hours to get everything broken down and loaded into the canoe. Russet busied himself around camp as I did this, at one point taking one of my gloves and playing keep-away with me. It took me about 10 minutes and bribe (treat) to get it back from him. By the time I had completed this work, the skies had clouded up.

Once I had the boat loaded, I put on Russet's PFD and checked the campsite one last time. I got in the canoe, followed by Russet, who settled down on the floor on his pad in front of me. Just as we pushed off, the snow showers started. We encountered showers at various times during our paddle out to the lower dam. By the time we arrived, the skies were beginning to clear, but it was still fairly cold and windy. 

Upon landing, I took Russet up to the Forester and settled him in. I then began the process of unloading the canoe and bringing the gear up to the Forester. During this process, the forest ranger for the area arrived and I had an opportunity to chat with him. Also, a hunter crossed the dam, heading towards his vehicle. The three of us then had a chance to chat a bit. Once all the canoe and gear were unloaded and carried up, I loaded everything and Russet I departed.

Once we left the Bog River area, we turned north, traveled through Tupper Lake and onto Route 3 towards Saranac Lake to check out one of the two NFCT (Northern Forest Canoe Trail) areas I adopted. We drove to Old Dock Road, down to the launch area. I parked and walked down to the dock where one could launch onto Upper Saranac Lake. The NFCT campsites I adopted are along the shore of this bay of Upper Saranac. In the spring I will return here to paddle to the sites, survey each one, do light maintenance and submit a report on them. It will probably have to be a day paddle, as one cannot park here overnight. The only available parking is on Route 3, about a mile from this put-in, so I would have to drive down to the parking area, unload the canoe and gear, drive back to Route 3, park and walk back down to load up and launch. After camping, I would have to land, unload the canoe, walk up to Route 3 to get the Forester, drive down, load up and go. Inconvenient and annoying to say the least.

Because of the cold and wind, my visit here was quick. Getting back into the Forester, I drove up the access road to Route 3, turned towards Saranac Lake and drove to the South Creek Access Point. One can launch here to paddle to Middle Saranac Lake. The parking situation here is much the same as that of Old Dock Road - one can unload and launch, but you must park along the road. However, at least here the road is within sight and only a relatively short walk to parking spots (although they are limited). Launching from here to camp on Middle Saranac is definitely something I would do very early and late in the paddling season, way before the campground opens.

After leaving the South Creek Access, I drove to back on towards Tupper Lake on Route 3, stopping once again at the Old Dock Road turnout. I wanted to check out Indian Carry, the NFCT carry trail from Route 3 to Stony Creek Ponds, which I also maintain as part of my adoption of this section of the trail. My intention was for Russet and I to walk the trail, but it was colder and more windy than before, and besides, I wanted to check out the other section of the NFCT that I adopted, before making the nearly five hour drive back home. I did stop briefly to check out the trail access point.

After a brief stop at the trail head, we continued the drive on Route 3 towards Tupper Lake and on to Long Lake.

Passing through Long Lake, we turned off on Deerland Road, heading towards the Forked Lake campsite. About 20 minutes later we arrived at the parking area and landing at Forked Lake. There were a couple campers parked there, presumably they were hunting in the area. I didn't spend much time, just took a moment to find the location of the register, so I could check it out on future visits to this, the second section of the NFCT I had adopted. It had gotten colder, so I got back in the Forester quickly and went back down the road from which we came.

The next stop was the turnout for Pine Brook Leanto, nearly two and half miles from the takeout at Forked Lake. Paddlers would have to transport their boats and gear to this leanto, where they could camp or put into the Raquette River and continue their trip. Russet got to stretch his legs when we took a short walk through the woods to inspect the site, the leanto and the privy. I noticed there was no register in the leanto; maybe it isn't adopted? It is such a beautiful site, with the river right so close, providing a constant, relaxing sound.

This site brought back memories, as it was the location of the first solo winter camping trip I did in the Adirondacks (back in the late 1980s). My recollection was how cold it was, so much so that the water froze in my pot between the Raquette River and the leanto. That night I could hear the branches snapping off the trees from the wind and below zero temperatures. The forecast was for colder temperatures and snow so I only spent the one night there and then retreated to the Adirondack Hotel in Long Lake for other two nights. 

After spending a bit of time there and walking back to the Forester, we headed down to the next location on this section of the NFCT: Buttermilk Falls. Paddlers would launch onto the Raquette River at the Pine Brook leanto and paddle to a landing just before the falls to take-out. I wanted to check out the carry and the area around it.

Russet and I got to stretch out legs again as we walked the short carry trail, some of which was well-marked and other parts were not. We also checked out the falls.

Afterwards, we walked back to the Forester and started the long drive back home. Fortunately, it was easy and uneventful - good driving conditions and very little traffic the entire way.